After my return from Ireland and Venice, I spent the next
few days relaxing in Lille preparing for my return trip home. There was still
one place I had yet to visit; the Royal Greenhouses of Laeken. The Royal Greenhouses of Laeken are a vast
complex of monumental heated greenhouses in the park of the Royal Castle of Laeken
in Brussels. The Castle houses the Royal family of Belgium. The Greenhouses are
a beautiful latticework of metal and glass built in the Victorian style. Even
though I was very near Brussels for three months I was not able to visit them
until the end of the trip because they are only open for 30 days between the
middle of April to the middle of May, when the flowers are at full bloom. It
was my last chance to see the complex before I would depart the next morning.
I wasn’t able to get any high-speed train tickets on such
short notice so I was forced to ride slow trains to Brussels. I got up that
morning but decided to sleep in because I was tired; missing the first train.
When I woke up I looked up the next train, but when I went to the station I
couldn’t find it. It just wasn’t there. I tried once more to get high-speed
tickets but failed. I thought about giving up but this would be my last chance
to see it, maybe ever. So I tried getting on one last train and actually
managed to find this one. I rode to Gent and transferred trains to Brussels
Nord Station. When I got off the train I was in a part of the city that I had
never been before, so it took some time to get my bearings. I was still pretty
far from the Palace, which is in the middle of a massive park, and had to walk
the rest of the way. I was in a hurry, as the only train route with one
transfer back to Lille would leave the station in a couple of hours. Any trains
leaving after that had at least three transfers.
I jogged most of the way to the park, while trying not to
look like an idiot. Eventually I arrived at the gate. The palace grounds were
stunning. Groups of people were being directed by guards towards the Greenhouse
entrance. I went in paid for my ticket then stood in awe at the inside of the
massive glass dome. This was only the first of many structures I would visit.
The vast dome was inhabited mainly by tropical plants like palm trees. After I
was finished gawking, I made my way to the next part of the tour which took me
outside the dome to view the vast rolling hills of the palace grounds. I passed
by several smaller buildings and a Japanese Pagoda before entering a new
greenhouse which had a series of glass hallways and corridors. The walls of the
hallways were lined with beautiful flower arrangements and the ceilings had
exquisite vines and flowers hanging down. The space got compressed and resulted
in large groups of people holding up progress and distracted from the beauty of
the space. Looking past the people I was able to true beauty. I have never seen
such delicate and intentional design of flora. It gave me a new appreciation
for landscape design.
After snaking my way through various greenhouses and
passageways I wound up back in the large dome where I started. I lingered for a
little while longer before leaving. I jogged back to the train station and
caught the train back to Gent. I had to wait nearly an hour for the transfer
because of a delay. Eventually I got back to Lille. In spite of any attempts by
the universe to prevent my last trip to Brussels, I had seen the Royal Greenhouse.
The structure was a little rusted in spots but the plants were stunning and
more than made up for it. If I could do it all again, I would have gotten up on
time and caught the first train. Spending more time in the greenhouse would
have been nice. In the end my last day in Europe wasn’t spent sitting on the
couch; I went out and saw something cool.
The next morning I woke up with my roommates and got on a
train to Charles de Gaulle Airport and boarded a flight to Chicago. What was my
first thought upon landing you ask? “Wow,
what’s with all the fat Americans?”