Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Venezia, Capisce?

 First Picture In Venice


 St. Mark's Basilica
 Piazza San Marco
San Giorgio Maggiore
 The Basilica & Doge's Palace
 The Doge's Palace
 Piazza at Night                                                              Arsenale






The line to get into the Basilica Museum

Venice: In Vino Veritas



After a frustratingly long bus ride from the Treviso airport, we crossed the bridge into Venice. I set out to find my hostel and immediately got lost. The alleyways and canals are confusing to navigate until you get used to them. After a bit of reorientation I managed to track down the address. The entrance was an inconspicuous door in a narrow alleyway. The hostel was simply a large apartment with four large bedrooms a couple bathrooms and a kitchen. The hostel manager was a guy in his early 30’s who lived there. It was a really comfortable and relaxed place. After settling in I set out to explore the city. The first thing I did was get a water bus pass for the next few days. I rode the bus around the canals and got a magnificent view of the city. I disembarked at the famous Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) but decided not to visit the Basilica until my last day (which would prove to be a mistake). My first destination was St. Mark’s Campanile the bell tower of the Basilica. From the top I had an absolutely beautiful view of the entire city. There was a small cluster of storm clouds cutting across the sky and scattering the sunlight over the rooftops. While up there I was nearly deafened by the church bells.

My next stop was the Doge’s Palace, the residence of the Doge of Venice, the supreme authority of the Republic of Venice. The ornate residence sits immediately beside the Basilica. To my frustration, cameras were not allowed beyond the inner courtyard. The inside of the palace was a large and elaborate sequence of rooms and passageways all encrusted with sophisticated works of art. One of my favorite rooms was the “Armory”; a museum of weapons likely used to defend the palace and the city through the ages. The palace even had a dungeon. After exploring the palace the rain had passed and I could further explore the city. I rode the water bus back to the hostel and set out to find dinner. My guide book for Venice mentioned a great little place to eat at a reasonable price but it took me almost an hour to find. I had a pasta dish with scallops and tomatoes that was simple and succulent. I couldn’t speak a word of Italian and the woman working did not speak English but thankfully she was patient with me. After dinner I returned to the Piazza San Marco as the sun was setting. I found that much of the square was flooded by the high tide and people were walking around on wooden walkways that sat above the rising water. It was a peculiar site but made sense considering the city is slowly being overtaken by the ocean.

After getting a view of the city a night (by water bus), I returned to my hostel for the night. While there I decided to read for a bit in the common area before bed. I stuck up a conversation with a guy from England by the name of Pete. Like me, he was traveling alone and we found it nice to have someone else to talk to. We shared stories of home and of our previous travels. I didn’t get much reading done. After talking for over an hour we both decided it was best to call it a night.

The next morning I woke up and had breakfast at the hostel. The sun was bright and clouds were fluffy and white. I set out on yet another water bus ride, this time I rode along the outside of the main island to the small periphery island of San Giorgio Maggiore. I visited the church on the island and climbed the bell tower. Again I got a great view of the city and the bay. I stopped at a café on the island for lunch. After lunch I rode back to the main Island and tried to find my way into the Arsenale di Venezia. A historic military harbor, which I found was still a guarded military base. Unable to enter I spent the next few hours wandering the city and perusing the markets for something interesting. I got on a water bus and rode it around the city for over an hour. The ride was so relaxing that I fell asleep at one point. When I got off I wandered into the historic Jewish Ghetto which was once a place of great suffering. After a long day of exploring I was very hungry and got some cheap pizza for dinner. When I got back to the hostel the owner offered to make us some homemade lasagna if we chipped in a few euros. Even though I had already eaten the offer was too good to pass up. Many of the hostel residents gathered for dinner. The food was delicious and Pete and each drank our fair share of wine. That night I also met Sarah, who had arrived at the hostel that day. Sarah was from Canada and was on vacation by herself as well. After a long dinner with lots of food, wine, and great conversation, I decided to go to bed.

On my last full day in Venice it was raining for much of the morning. I decided to visit St. Mark’s Basilica and got lost along the way. I spent several hours wandering the streets and before long it started to hail. Seeking shelter I wound up in a small pizza place and decided it was time for lunch. With my large slice of pepperoni and bottle of orange Fanta in hand, I went to find a place to eat. After lunch the rain had stopped and the sun had come out. I finally found my way to the Basilica only to find that it was closed for preparations for some religious ceremony. I was not happy. I had put off my visit to the Basilica because I wanted to end my trip on a high note; I thought I had missed my chance. I noticed that the museum in the upper story of the church was still open, but backpacks were not allowed. I tried to find the coat check but it was in an unmarked building down an alley away from the Basilica. I nearly gave up out of frustration. After finding the coat check and leaving my backpack I decided to sneak my camera inside with me. I had nothing left to lose at this point. When I got into the museum I started taking pictures of their models and artifacts out of spite. Eventually, to my surprise, the museum opened into the upper story of the church. I got to see the interior of St. Mark’s Basilica. I spent as much time as I could admiring the view of the golden mosaic ceiling; taking more pictures out of spite… After seeing as much as I could of the interior I went out to the balcony over the Piazza and to get a view of the exterior architecture. After exploring as much of the building as I could, I went back to the coat check content with what I thought would be a disappointing experience.

After St. Mark’s Basilica I made my way to a little restaurant that had an enticing menu for a decent price. I remember eating a modest pasta dish with a glass of wine. After dinner I ran into Sarah, who was looking for a place to eat. We managed to find a place nicer than the one I had eaten at. It was a great place and I was kicking myself for already having eaten because her food looked delicious. We each had a glass of wine and lots of good conversation. After an hour or so we made our way back to the hostel. We said our farewells as it was my last night and I would be getting up at 4:00 a.m. to catch the bus back to Treviso; which is exactly what happened next. No human being should wake up before 6:00 a.m. I managed to catch the bus with time to spare and slept as I rode to the Treviso Airport. I caught my flight to Brussels Charleroi Airport which, like Venice Treviso, was nowhere near Brussels. After a bus ride to the train station, a train ride to Brussels, and a covert high speed train ride to Lille (for which I did not have a proper ticket), I was back in France after traveling alone for nearly two weeks.

Monday, January 14, 2013

All That You Can't Leave Behind

                                   Muckross Lake                                        Kerry Bog Village House

                         Kerry Bog Village Smith Shop                     Shore Along the Ring of Kerry

                                                                      Brendan Ferris
                                                                       Ring of Kerry



                                                                       Staigue Fort


                                                               Killarney National Park
                                  St. Mary's Cathedral                                        Park in Dublin
                                               The elusive Stephen's Green Shopping Center

                                                              Dublin Airport McDonald's

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Ireland Part 4: One Step Closer



On my Final day in Galway I decided to walk around before my train to Killarney. It was a bright and sunny morning, but there were ominous clouds on the horizon. I ran into a shopping mall to seek refuge and as soon as I got inside a cascade of rain came pouring down. It wasn’t just rain though, tons of hail was mixed with it. From the glass roof atrium the sound of ice beads crashing down resonated through the space. It seemed that as quickly as the storm began, it was over even more quickly. When I was outside again, it was sunny. After my strange morning, I got on the train to Killarney. It took a while to get there because there is no direct train between the two cities. I had to travel halfway back to Dublin and transfer to a train to Killarney.

It was already the evening by the time I arrived. I traveled through the rain to get to my hostel. It was difficult to find since entrance was at the back of an alleyway. Once I got checked into my room (I booked a single room for myself this time), I went to a local pub for a few pints and a bite to eat. After dinner I went back to the hostel. I went to the lounge to read a copy of Ulysses that I bought at the James Joyce Center in London. While I was there I met a girl from Germany named Lena. We had a great conversation that lasted for a couple hours. It’s always fun sharing cross cultural perspectives with new friends. The next day I had planned on renting a bike and riding through the Gap of Dunloe but the forecast for that day did not look good. I decided to take a bus tour of the Ring of Kerry, something I had done in Ireland five years ago.

I woke up that morning and was picked up by the bus driver Eddie at the hostel. There were two others from my hostel on the tour and a large group of people from Boston. Eddie was very personable and entertaining. He would tell stories about the locals and his family; painting a vivid picture of what it was like to live around Killarney. The bus ride around the ring was very different from when I last did it. The sun was shining and the breeze was gentle. The first time there, the rain and clouds kept you from seeing more than a hundred yards beyond the shoreline. We revisited the old bog village, where a couple of old Irish wolf hounds seemed to remember me (at least I like to think so).  After that we made it over to a small stop where local Irish Sheppard and dog trainer, Brendan Ferris, had a demonstration on the various aspects of dog training and sheep herding. I also saw this man five years before and he hadn’t changed a bit; I think he was wearing the same shirt. We continued around the coast until we made it to a restaurant on the hillside where I had a Guinness and a big bowl of Irish stew.

After a brief lunch, the bus traveled on along the coast. Our last major stop was at a nearby Staigue Fort. The fort was built in the early centuries A.D. We had to walk a little ways from the road to reach it. It was a circular fort made of stacked stones that have held up very well over the centuries. It’s a wonder how it avoided being demolished by a farmer and turned into a stone fence or small barn. It had magnificent sweeping views of the valley and would have been easy to defend against any raiding clans. After this last stop, the bus took us back to Killarney where I ate dinner and went exploring for a bit. I walked through the Killarney National Park to Ross Castle which I had visited in the past. The next day I woke up for one of the longest two days of my life.

I rode the train from Killarney back to Dublin. On the way back the train was crowded with old people from Dublin on their way back from a group vacation and occupied almost all of the seats. I sat next to a particular gentleman named Des (Desmond) who was traveling on his own. We had a magnificent conversation about traveling and golf. During the train ride he even bought me lunch. That will be one of the highlights of my entire trip. It was the early afternoon when I arrived in Dublin. My plan was to spend the night in the Dublin airport and catch an early flight to Venice Treviso Airport. With several hours of daylight I decided to explore more of the city. When I visited the city in the past, I had found a mall/ shopping center with a great atrium and skylight. The design was a little post-modern for my taste but it had a very nice feeling to it. The problem was I had no memory of how I got there the first time. So with little time to spare I began my search. I started south of the River Liffey near Trinity College. I happened upon a familiar street that led me to a market with a bunch of shops and trinkets that I had seen 5 years previous. After a bit more exploring I made my way to the Mall. It was exactly as I ha remembered. The atrium had a massive clock hanging from the ceiling as a centerpiece and the structure was all white. The design had a faux Victorian feel, but made up for it with a lot of interesting foliage. In any case, it’s a wonder I found it at all. I was very proud of myself.

With my objective complete, I explored a few nearby parks, ate dinner, and took a bus to the airport at around 10 o’clock. When I arrived I was not quite sure how to spend my time so I sat at the McDonald's and watched the BBC until I knew the repeating news stories by heart. The McDonald's was open 24 hours so at least I had company. Around 2 a.m. I tried to get a little sleep but I was too worried someone might take my bag to get any. After a while I resigned myself to watching the BBC once more and eavesdropping on the conversations of some interesting airport staff. For breakfast I got a cup of coffee and a couple egg McMuffins. I got on my flight to the Venice Treviso airport and realized the airport in was a good 45 minute bus ride to Venice. I guess I was expecting too much from Ryan Air. It was a near torturous experience but the worst of it was over and I was now on my way to Venice.