Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Ireland Part 4: One Step Closer



On my Final day in Galway I decided to walk around before my train to Killarney. It was a bright and sunny morning, but there were ominous clouds on the horizon. I ran into a shopping mall to seek refuge and as soon as I got inside a cascade of rain came pouring down. It wasn’t just rain though, tons of hail was mixed with it. From the glass roof atrium the sound of ice beads crashing down resonated through the space. It seemed that as quickly as the storm began, it was over even more quickly. When I was outside again, it was sunny. After my strange morning, I got on the train to Killarney. It took a while to get there because there is no direct train between the two cities. I had to travel halfway back to Dublin and transfer to a train to Killarney.

It was already the evening by the time I arrived. I traveled through the rain to get to my hostel. It was difficult to find since entrance was at the back of an alleyway. Once I got checked into my room (I booked a single room for myself this time), I went to a local pub for a few pints and a bite to eat. After dinner I went back to the hostel. I went to the lounge to read a copy of Ulysses that I bought at the James Joyce Center in London. While I was there I met a girl from Germany named Lena. We had a great conversation that lasted for a couple hours. It’s always fun sharing cross cultural perspectives with new friends. The next day I had planned on renting a bike and riding through the Gap of Dunloe but the forecast for that day did not look good. I decided to take a bus tour of the Ring of Kerry, something I had done in Ireland five years ago.

I woke up that morning and was picked up by the bus driver Eddie at the hostel. There were two others from my hostel on the tour and a large group of people from Boston. Eddie was very personable and entertaining. He would tell stories about the locals and his family; painting a vivid picture of what it was like to live around Killarney. The bus ride around the ring was very different from when I last did it. The sun was shining and the breeze was gentle. The first time there, the rain and clouds kept you from seeing more than a hundred yards beyond the shoreline. We revisited the old bog village, where a couple of old Irish wolf hounds seemed to remember me (at least I like to think so).  After that we made it over to a small stop where local Irish Sheppard and dog trainer, Brendan Ferris, had a demonstration on the various aspects of dog training and sheep herding. I also saw this man five years before and he hadn’t changed a bit; I think he was wearing the same shirt. We continued around the coast until we made it to a restaurant on the hillside where I had a Guinness and a big bowl of Irish stew.

After a brief lunch, the bus traveled on along the coast. Our last major stop was at a nearby Staigue Fort. The fort was built in the early centuries A.D. We had to walk a little ways from the road to reach it. It was a circular fort made of stacked stones that have held up very well over the centuries. It’s a wonder how it avoided being demolished by a farmer and turned into a stone fence or small barn. It had magnificent sweeping views of the valley and would have been easy to defend against any raiding clans. After this last stop, the bus took us back to Killarney where I ate dinner and went exploring for a bit. I walked through the Killarney National Park to Ross Castle which I had visited in the past. The next day I woke up for one of the longest two days of my life.

I rode the train from Killarney back to Dublin. On the way back the train was crowded with old people from Dublin on their way back from a group vacation and occupied almost all of the seats. I sat next to a particular gentleman named Des (Desmond) who was traveling on his own. We had a magnificent conversation about traveling and golf. During the train ride he even bought me lunch. That will be one of the highlights of my entire trip. It was the early afternoon when I arrived in Dublin. My plan was to spend the night in the Dublin airport and catch an early flight to Venice Treviso Airport. With several hours of daylight I decided to explore more of the city. When I visited the city in the past, I had found a mall/ shopping center with a great atrium and skylight. The design was a little post-modern for my taste but it had a very nice feeling to it. The problem was I had no memory of how I got there the first time. So with little time to spare I began my search. I started south of the River Liffey near Trinity College. I happened upon a familiar street that led me to a market with a bunch of shops and trinkets that I had seen 5 years previous. After a bit more exploring I made my way to the Mall. It was exactly as I ha remembered. The atrium had a massive clock hanging from the ceiling as a centerpiece and the structure was all white. The design had a faux Victorian feel, but made up for it with a lot of interesting foliage. In any case, it’s a wonder I found it at all. I was very proud of myself.

With my objective complete, I explored a few nearby parks, ate dinner, and took a bus to the airport at around 10 o’clock. When I arrived I was not quite sure how to spend my time so I sat at the McDonald's and watched the BBC until I knew the repeating news stories by heart. The McDonald's was open 24 hours so at least I had company. Around 2 a.m. I tried to get a little sleep but I was too worried someone might take my bag to get any. After a while I resigned myself to watching the BBC once more and eavesdropping on the conversations of some interesting airport staff. For breakfast I got a cup of coffee and a couple egg McMuffins. I got on my flight to the Venice Treviso airport and realized the airport in was a good 45 minute bus ride to Venice. I guess I was expecting too much from Ryan Air. It was a near torturous experience but the worst of it was over and I was now on my way to Venice.

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