Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Ireland Part 4: One Step Closer



On my Final day in Galway I decided to walk around before my train to Killarney. It was a bright and sunny morning, but there were ominous clouds on the horizon. I ran into a shopping mall to seek refuge and as soon as I got inside a cascade of rain came pouring down. It wasn’t just rain though, tons of hail was mixed with it. From the glass roof atrium the sound of ice beads crashing down resonated through the space. It seemed that as quickly as the storm began, it was over even more quickly. When I was outside again, it was sunny. After my strange morning, I got on the train to Killarney. It took a while to get there because there is no direct train between the two cities. I had to travel halfway back to Dublin and transfer to a train to Killarney.

It was already the evening by the time I arrived. I traveled through the rain to get to my hostel. It was difficult to find since entrance was at the back of an alleyway. Once I got checked into my room (I booked a single room for myself this time), I went to a local pub for a few pints and a bite to eat. After dinner I went back to the hostel. I went to the lounge to read a copy of Ulysses that I bought at the James Joyce Center in London. While I was there I met a girl from Germany named Lena. We had a great conversation that lasted for a couple hours. It’s always fun sharing cross cultural perspectives with new friends. The next day I had planned on renting a bike and riding through the Gap of Dunloe but the forecast for that day did not look good. I decided to take a bus tour of the Ring of Kerry, something I had done in Ireland five years ago.

I woke up that morning and was picked up by the bus driver Eddie at the hostel. There were two others from my hostel on the tour and a large group of people from Boston. Eddie was very personable and entertaining. He would tell stories about the locals and his family; painting a vivid picture of what it was like to live around Killarney. The bus ride around the ring was very different from when I last did it. The sun was shining and the breeze was gentle. The first time there, the rain and clouds kept you from seeing more than a hundred yards beyond the shoreline. We revisited the old bog village, where a couple of old Irish wolf hounds seemed to remember me (at least I like to think so).  After that we made it over to a small stop where local Irish Sheppard and dog trainer, Brendan Ferris, had a demonstration on the various aspects of dog training and sheep herding. I also saw this man five years before and he hadn’t changed a bit; I think he was wearing the same shirt. We continued around the coast until we made it to a restaurant on the hillside where I had a Guinness and a big bowl of Irish stew.

After a brief lunch, the bus traveled on along the coast. Our last major stop was at a nearby Staigue Fort. The fort was built in the early centuries A.D. We had to walk a little ways from the road to reach it. It was a circular fort made of stacked stones that have held up very well over the centuries. It’s a wonder how it avoided being demolished by a farmer and turned into a stone fence or small barn. It had magnificent sweeping views of the valley and would have been easy to defend against any raiding clans. After this last stop, the bus took us back to Killarney where I ate dinner and went exploring for a bit. I walked through the Killarney National Park to Ross Castle which I had visited in the past. The next day I woke up for one of the longest two days of my life.

I rode the train from Killarney back to Dublin. On the way back the train was crowded with old people from Dublin on their way back from a group vacation and occupied almost all of the seats. I sat next to a particular gentleman named Des (Desmond) who was traveling on his own. We had a magnificent conversation about traveling and golf. During the train ride he even bought me lunch. That will be one of the highlights of my entire trip. It was the early afternoon when I arrived in Dublin. My plan was to spend the night in the Dublin airport and catch an early flight to Venice Treviso Airport. With several hours of daylight I decided to explore more of the city. When I visited the city in the past, I had found a mall/ shopping center with a great atrium and skylight. The design was a little post-modern for my taste but it had a very nice feeling to it. The problem was I had no memory of how I got there the first time. So with little time to spare I began my search. I started south of the River Liffey near Trinity College. I happened upon a familiar street that led me to a market with a bunch of shops and trinkets that I had seen 5 years previous. After a bit more exploring I made my way to the Mall. It was exactly as I ha remembered. The atrium had a massive clock hanging from the ceiling as a centerpiece and the structure was all white. The design had a faux Victorian feel, but made up for it with a lot of interesting foliage. In any case, it’s a wonder I found it at all. I was very proud of myself.

With my objective complete, I explored a few nearby parks, ate dinner, and took a bus to the airport at around 10 o’clock. When I arrived I was not quite sure how to spend my time so I sat at the McDonald's and watched the BBC until I knew the repeating news stories by heart. The McDonald's was open 24 hours so at least I had company. Around 2 a.m. I tried to get a little sleep but I was too worried someone might take my bag to get any. After a while I resigned myself to watching the BBC once more and eavesdropping on the conversations of some interesting airport staff. For breakfast I got a cup of coffee and a couple egg McMuffins. I got on my flight to the Venice Treviso airport and realized the airport in was a good 45 minute bus ride to Venice. I guess I was expecting too much from Ryan Air. It was a near torturous experience but the worst of it was over and I was now on my way to Venice.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Window in the Sky

 Ross-Errily Friary

Ross-Errily Friary                            The Entrance to the Forest near Cong

 Bridge to the Forest                                Fishing House for Local Monks

 Joey the Pony
 the Hills of Connemara
The Kylemore Abbey

 Small Chapel on the Abbey Grounds                               Interior of the Abbey            
Modeled after Gothic Cathedrals                                                                        

 Coast of Galway Bay
 Galway Cathedral

 Cathedral Altar
The River Corrib running through Galway

Ireland Part 3: When I Look at the World


After returning to Galway from my trip to Clifden, my first job (as always) was to track down my hostel. It was only a couple blocks from the city center. I checked in to find that I was the only person checked into my five person room. I waited around a bit to see if anyone was going to show up but no one did. I had the entire room to myself. After this comforting revelation, I went out to reacquaint myself with Galway (remember I visited 5 years previous). I made my way down to the bay and back up to the cathedral. I decided that night that I would take a tour the next day, organized by the hostel.

The next day the bus picked me up and I went back north to Connemara to see the area around Clifden. It was a rainy day, but it seemed that whenever we got out of the bus it would stop just long enough for us to explore. The bus driver was witty and talkative. The first stop was at the Ross-Errily Friary, the ruins of an old stone friary. After that we headed for the village of Cong, where the film The Quite Man (starring John Wayne) was filmed. The village is on the boarder of a forest, which I spent the brief stop exploring. It was a beautiful and calming walk. I had time to reflect on the fact that i was doing this traveling entirely on my own and how far i had come since I began my European travels. Then we made our way to our final stop, the Kylemore Abbey. Kylemore Abbey is a Benedictine monastery founded in 1920 on the grounds of Kylemore Castle. Kylemore Castle was built as a private home for the family of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy politician from England who was also an MP for Galway County from 1871 to 1885.

The Abbey grounds are at the base of a mountain, beside a lake, and create a beautiful and picturesque view of the landscape. There is an extensive garden complex which used to be a collection of beautiful Victorian greenhouses, until they burned down years ago. The Abbey itself is only partly open to the public, but the interior is ornately decorated. The rain from the day was rolling down the mountainside accentuating the rock outcroppings and crevices. The weather made me feel like i was walking through a clouded painting. with the fog obscuring the world beyond the frame. It’s easy to see why Mitchell Henry decided to make a home there. One our way back to Galway we stopped by a farm to see a Connemara pony. The pony’s name was Joey, and he seemed to be used to bus visitors. When he heard the sound of the bus he came running to meet us. When we were done giving Joey some apples, we headed back to Galway.

When I got back to Galway I went to a local restaurant for some fish and chips that were highly recommended. After that I went to explore more of the city before retiring for the evening. Again I had the entire room to myself. The next day I would head south to Kilarney by train.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Running to Stand Still

 Pictures from Clifden and the Surrounding Landscape







                                                                   The Catholic Church in Clifden
 The Clifden Traditional Music Festival







Monday, May 14, 2012

Ireland Part 2: Beautiful Day


Way back in Amsterdam I came across an English language bookstore. While I was there I picked up a book on traveling to Ireland to help me plan my trip. I spent the next several weeks reading the book and picking out places to visit. It became apparent that I could not see everything I wanted when I realized I couldn’t rent a car (I’m not 25). So I pick to limit myself to only a few destinations. One of my priorities was to find a small Irish town and spend some time off the well beaten path. The book mentioned a town by the name of Clifden, in the Connemara region. It was only mentioned briefly in the book, but it seemed like a good fit. When it came time to book a hostel I was only able to stay for one night, since all the other nights that weekend were booked. So, I had to plan the rest of my trip around this fact.

After traveling from Dublin to Galway, I took a bus up to Clifden. The ride was very relaxed and the beautiful scenery was captivating. I arrived in town and was struck by the view of the mountains to the East. I headed to my hostel and checked in. I asked the manager for a good place to go for a walk and he pointed towards the coast. So I made my way West. As I got a little further out of town, I climbed a hill with a small monument on the top. I afforded me a magnificent view of the town and the mountains. After a few minutes on the hill top a large rain cloud passed blissfully overhead. I took refuge beside the monument for about a half hour. When the rain had finally stopped I continued on down the road. The walk itself was magnificent. I felt like I was truly in Ireland. After walking along the hillside of a bay for about an hour, I found myself at the end of the peninsula. The view of the ocean was breathtaking as the sun tore its way through the clouds. I sat there marveling at the rocky islands that dotted the coast. I began making my way around the peninsula as the clouds were dispersing. The small farm houses and open fields were bathed in sunlight. Many homes I passed had children playing as families and neighbors relaxed in amiable conversation.

As I made my way back to town, I began thinking about dinner. When I got back into town, I found a bar with a stage set up outside. I sat down inside, had a burger and a couple pints of Guinness. While I was inside a band took the stage and started playing traditional Irish music. As it turns out, this was the weekend of the Clifden Traditional Music Festival. Everyone from the town was there. After I had eaten I went outside to enjoy the music for the rest of my evening. There were even kids from the local step dancing class who performed on stage with the band. The night was fantastic and the weather was perfect. That was one of the first times I had seen consistent sun for most of the day in Ireland (even considering the passing rain clouds). When the concert started winding down I headed back to the hostel and went to bed.

The next day, I woke up to realize it was Sunday. I decided not to miss the opportunity to attend a small town, Irish Catholic Mass. To kill some time before the mass I walked back up the hill to the monument I had visited the previous day. The sun was shining and the sky was dotted with puffy white clouds. I sat there for a while just enjoying the day. Then I made my way back down to the church and to mass. It was a great service, being the Sunday after Easter. The choir had some traditional instruments from the night before performing with them and the kids from the step dancing class performed as well. After the mass was over, I walked around and explored the town some more before my bus back to Galway arrived. When it did arrive, I was sad to go. Clifden was definitely the experience that I had been looking for in Ireland and I will remember it always.

I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For

 "Bono Vox" is an alteration of Bonavox, a Latin phrase which translates to "good voice."
It's where U2's Bono got his nickname.
 Statue of author James Joyce                     Dinning Room in my Hostel/ Bed & Breakfast
 River Liffey and the Ha'penny Bridge


 Guiness Brewery
 The Kilmainham Gaol Prison                      The Victorian Wing of the Prison
 Atrium in the Guiness Storehouse
 Raw Power of Guinness
 View from the Guinness Storehouse "Gravity Bar"
 Poster in the James Joyce Center                Artwork at the James Joyce Center
The Temple Bar