Thursday, April 26, 2012

Cologne or Köln


The trip to Köln came the weekend after our project was due and presented. It also happened to coincide with Easter weekend. After the presentations were finished everyone was ready for a break. We headed to Köln Friday morning and arrived that afternoon. We stopped in Liege for a transfer and got to see a great Santiago Calatrava (a prominent Spanish Architect) train station. We left Liege for Köln on a German train, which was clean, beautiful, and efficient (as you might expect). We arrived in Köln HBF (central station), which was not the most grand of stations, but was still a very fine example of German efficiency. It was miles above the awful Amsterdam train station. Right outside the station was the Köln Cathedral, the second largest cathedral in Germany. We marveled and took a few pictures before walking to our hostel. Once we were checked in, we headed out to a great German restaurant and brewery called the Weissbrauhaus. We had great food and great beer. After dinner we got some ice cream and explored the city a bit more. We went to bed early as we were still pretty tired from the past week.

We woke up early on Saturday to arrive at Köln Cathedral to begin our class tour. We started by visiting the media center of Köln, the major center of the German media. After that we walked to a Museum by architect Peter Zumthor. The museum was constructed over a bombed out church, and preserves much of the ruin within a carefully designed space. There is a walkway going over the ruins creating the feel of an archeological dig site. The rest of the museum is very clean and modern, using light to create spaces that feel very gentle. After exploring the museum, we made our way back to the city center. Over the lunch break, I went with a few other students to climb the Köln Cathedral Belfry. It was a very difficult climb up the stairs, as there was no elevator, but the view was well worth it. We also got to see some of the more intimate space of the Cathedral. After lunch we went to explore some newer developments along the Rhine River. We then went to a restaurant/ bar that was once an old fire station. Our professor bought us each a beer to celebrate our last trip and our finished project. We sat and talked for a while, before parting ways. I went to the shopping area to look for a new backpack for my upcoming trip to Ireland. After finding a new one for about 80 Euros (on sale from 100 Euros), I met up with my group and we went to find a place to eat dinner. On the way we ventured into a barrel vaulted passageway, with a group of very talented street musicians playing. The ensemble consisted of a violin player, two accordion players, a tuba player, and a man with a massive triangular stringed bass. Between the five of them, they were able to mimic the sound of a large church organ with the help of the unique acoustics in the space. We stayed and enjoyed their performance for quite a while before succumbing to hunger. We found another great German restaurant near the Cathedral and had dinner. After dinner I went my own way and went back to the hostel.

The next morning I woke up early again, this time to go to the Easter Mass at Köln Cathedral. I arrived 30 minutes early and still found it difficult to find a seat. I ended up sitting to the south side of the altar. It was a magnificent service, though I didn’t understand much of what was said. My two years of high school German weren’t much help. The organ and the choir were the best part and would be the highlight of any Easter Mass. The sounds of the organ and the choir resonated throughout the massive halls of the Cathedral. After mass, we got coffee and went to lunch at a great burger restaurant. I then went back to the Cathedral to take some pictures of the interior and the surrounding area. After that we boarded our train back to Lille. It was my first Easter away from my family, but I think I made up for with a once in a lifetime experience.

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