Monday, April 9, 2012

Munich and Vienna: Part 2 - Vienna


We left Munich early Saturday morning on a train to Vienna. On the way we traveled through Salzburg, where the Sound of Music was set. We arrived in the early afternoon and checked into our hostel. After that we met up with an old high school friend of Jeremiah’s, who is teaching in Vienna. We met at a place called Gasometer. It’s a series of apartment buildings built into a complex of four old natural gas storage facilities. Each is a large brick cylinder that was retrofitted with a different design, each by a different architect. I have wanted to see these in person for a while because I am a huge fan of adaptive reuse design. Unfortunately the apartments are secured and I couldn’t visit them or see their atrium's. I was also disappointed by the fact that there was a rather crude shopping complex, tastelessly inserted into the lower sections, connecting the four buildings. While, from what I know of the project, the residential portion is quite successful and inventive, the shopping portion was poorly done and is a stain on an otherwise magnificent old structure. After visiting Gasometer, Jeremiah’s friend showed us to a great Austrian restaurant, before parting ways with us. After a great meal, we returned to the hostel to get ready for the next day.

The next day we met Jeremiah’s friend at a place in Vienna known as Schonbrunn Palace. The complex is a large palace and a massive garden, with a maze of branching paths and coves with statues and fountains. The gardens even have the world’s oldest zoo. At the back of the gardens is a large hill overlooking the entire site and well as a large part of Vienna. The view from the top is spectacular. In the Gardens is a Palmenhaus (Palm House or greenhouse), which is a great example of turn of the century architecture. It was one of my favorite visits during the trip. The large building was filled with a wide variety of plants supported by a beautiful Victorian structure. We spent a great deal of time exploring the Palmenhaus and the rest of the Gardens. After a while Jeremiah’s friend had to depart and left to find lunch. After Lunch we went to visit the Vienna Natural History Museum. The museum was filled with all manner of minerals animals and plants. It was a very classical museum with great architecture that really made the space feel scholarly. The architecture enhanced the wealth of knowledge. We stayed at the museum until closing time, after which, we got dinner and went to bed.

On the third day we explored many of the older historic buildings around the city; parliament, government buildings, libraries and such. It was a rather disappointing day as many things in Vienna are closed on Mondays. We wanted to see the National Library, a massive archive of historic books, but it was closed to visitors that day. We also paid a visit to Beethoven’s house, but that was closed as well. We were also a bit dejected by the fact that we couldn’t see any musical performances (More so Jeremiah than myself, I didn’t have any clothing suitable for the Vienna Philharmonic). It may come as no surprise that concert tickets often sell out months in advance or cost a significant amount of money. Pretty much everything we visited was either closed or cost too much money to see. We did get to visit a fine butterfly house in another old Victorian greenhouse, but that was only major success of the day.

We awoke the next morning to catch our train back to Munich. After spending a day walking around Munich again, essentially killing time until our train back to Paris, we were tired and ready to be back in Lille. We spent a great deal of time in Munich’s Englischer Garten, before going back to the Hofbrauhaus for another great Bavarian dinner. We then boarded another train to Paris overnight and got back to Lille Wednesday morning, exhausted but happy for the things we had seen and done.

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