Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Normandy – A Fortunate Journey


Over the past weekend I was fortunate enough to have the chance to travel to the northern coast of France, to the region know as Normandy. Since I arrived in France I had wanted to visit the beaches of the D-Day Invasion and the site of the American Cemetery. The trip to Normandy came the weekend before our major project was due. I had to decide whether it was more worth my time to see the beaches of D-Day and the fortified monastery of Mont Saint-Michel. It was a more difficult decision than it may seem. I was far behind where I wanted to be and the weekend would be the perfect chance to catch up. But the obvious revelation hit me; I might not get to see these things again, at least not on this trip.

The trip began on Thursday as we headed over to Paris by train. We stopped to see an Art Fair at the Grand Palais, a magnificent piece of turn of the century architecture. The Grand Palais was originally constructed as an exhibition hall the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Its glass roof and Art Nouveau iron structure were a marvel for its time. It was very entertaining to view art in such a grand space. The art pieces on display were presented by a number of prominent local artists. After spending a few hours exploring the exhibit, we departed for the train station. Our next stop was Bayeux.

In Bayeux we spent the night exploring the city and having a great French dinner and woke Friday for a tour of several D-Day sites. The tour started at Pointe du Hoc, where a group of U.S. Army Rangers climbed a cliff to assault a Germany fortification at the top. The fortification is one of the most well preserved in the region and many of the bomb craters are still there. After that we went down to Omaha Beach where 3000 some American Soldiers lost their lives. The beach had few historical treasures left. Only a few remnants of German bunkers in the hill side, but it was not hard to image what it would have been like to run across that beach into the storm of chaos. While I was there I ran back across the beach, imagining what it might have been like. After leaving the beach, we visited the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial. Many may recognize it from the movie Saving Private Ryan. Visiting the cemetery was an almost surreal experience. I wish I gotten to spend more time in these places but our tour did not allow for that. I didn’t really get the chance to connect with the spaces. I’m sure I would have cried at the cemetery or the beach, I had found myself with more time. After the tour was over, we took a train to a town called Pontorson to visit the Abbey at Mont Saint-Michel.

Mont Saint-Michel is a fortified monastery built on a tall rocky tidal island. The island is surrounded by extraordinarily flat ground that is exposed when the tide fades. When the tide goes out, it goes out for miles. The monastery was a marvel of human construction. The spire towers over the barren landscape and can be seen for miles when the fog has lifted. From inside the top of the monastery, you get the impression that it was literally built among the clouds. I found it hard to believe that humans were capable of building something so fantastic. The rooms of the monastery go down into the rock and im sure I only got to see a portion of the catacombs that exist below. When the tide goes out it becomes possible to walk around the outside of the fortification.  Walking among the barren sands gives an even greater contrast to the towering structure. When wet though, the sand turns to quicksand, which will really only suck you down if you are missing half your brain and don’t notice that sort of thing. After spending an entire day exploring in awe, we had to depart and head back to Lille.

The weekend was full of experiences I could only dream of back in Fargo. In the end I experienced both somber tragedies as well as unparalleled awe. I wonder what next weekend will bring.

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